With an increasingly connected world, the apparel industry has transformed within the 21st century, to an accelerating business strategy, called fast fashion. This process has utilised the technology advances, trade expansion and lifestyle adjustments which have also accelerated. The fast fashion strategy aims to provide stylish and affordable clothes to the masses, by reducing expenses and time in the manufacturing processes. Retailers who have adopted fast fashion have been rewarded with accumulating profit as overconsumption is driving this industry. Despite this success, environmental concern has been neglected resulting in high levels of environmental damage, which generally have gone unnoticed by the consumers. This research project was conducted to critically analyse consumption norms for females aged from 18-25, in relation to fast fashion and environmental damage. This study adopted a methodological triangulation, in the form of questionnaires and semi-structured interviews. The use of a mixed method approach established general consumption norms through collecting 100 responses, whilst the semi-structured interviews provided analysis of respondents’ attitudes towards apparel consumption. The research has found that a large proportion of consumers are affected by fast fashion and increasing consumption. The reasons found for increasing consumption was increasing trend turnover, the importance of appearance and poor quality clothing. This study also recognised that there was a lack of awareness and a disconnection to the environmental issues. In addition, there was a common belief for the need for more advice and guidance on how to shop for clothes sustainably.
The apparel industry is one of
the most profitable and influential industries worldwide; shaping the
majority’s apparel consumption (Cobbing and Vicaire, 2015). The industries
dominance has arguably been enhanced by the fast fashion business strategy
which has fundamentally altered the industry at all levels; from the design and
production, to the lifespan of a garments (Sull and Turnconi, 2008). The
revolutionary business approach has accelerated sales and production resulting
in a trillion dollar industry, transforming a substantial proportion of the
western population consumption perceptions and behaviour norms (Choi, 2016;
Forbes, 2016). Therefore it is vital to understand all aspects of fast fashion
and the alterations in apparel consumption as this industry has great social,
environmental and financial implications (Cobbing and Vicaire, 2015; Solomon
and Rabolt, 2009). This research will concentrate on the environmental
implication due to the industry placing unrealistic and unsustainable pressures
on the environment which have arguably gone unnoticed.
Fast fashion had emerged from the
millennium, therefore there has been research and literature recognising the changes
within consumption behaviours and increasing trend turnover. However the
research remains at the surface of the issue, with little research investigating
the factors underpinning the increasing consumption and unsustainable
perceptions. Consequently, this research study will focus on general
consumption norms, investigating factors for overconsumption and barriers
prohibiting sustainable consumption. The study also explored key arguments for
environmental consumption to gain a further understanding of motivations and
barriers (Shove, 2009; Brosdahl and Carpenter, 2010).
The overall aim of this
dissertation is to investigate fast fashion in relation to general consumption
norms for women aged 18-25 within the apparel industry, alongside the
environmental implications. This will involve the development of knowledge as
to what the fast fashion business strategy involves and the potential
impacts. This will take into account
consumer behaviours, perceptions, influences and barriers to sustainable
apparel consumption.
To fulfil the aim stated, the
research project will be motivated by three objectives which will clearly
direct this study. The objectives are:
The literature review will cover
relevant literature within the topic of fast fashion and environmental
consumption. This section will begin with analysing the fast fashions business
strategy and the consequences within the fashion industry, regarding consumption
and trend turnover. It will then explore the environmental implication and
misconception within the apparel industry and the relation with fast fashion.
Following on, it will then comprise the literature on consumer perceptions to
the apparel industry and sustainable consumption behaviour, providing the
necessary context to create the research questions for this study.
The next chapter will justify the
methods selected to collect the data for the research, by providing an in-depth
description of the strengths and limitations of using methodological triangulation
and conclude the relevance for the aims of this research project. This also includes
the sampling methods and process of ethical consent to obtain a valid and high
standard of research.
The findings and discussion
chapter will present the primary data collection from this research project and
separates them into key themes. The quantitative data will be presented first in
descriptive statistics to capture general consumption norms. This is supported
by the qualitative data which provides the scope and detail needed to clarify
motivations and barriers for apparel consumption. These findings will also be
supplemented with secondary data from the literature review to either support,
conflict existing findings or highlight a new point of interest.
The final chapter will conclude
the research project and provide an overview of the study’s findings and the
significance of this research. This section will also briefly discuss
developments within this topic and where further research is required to gain a
greater clarification.
This chapter will review the available
and relevant literature on fast fashion alongside environmental consumption. This
section firstly outlines the development and ethos of fast fashion, to increase
contextual knowledge. The section will then comprise the literature on
subsequent impacts on apparel consumptions and consumer perceptions. After, the
environmental implications are evaluated against the framework of fast fashion
to comprehend the large scale damage. There
is also a short discussion on the ideologies of environmental awareness and
environmental concern within consumption. The findings from the literature
review have also assisted the formation of the researches objectives and
questions in order to clarify and support existing research. Additionally, the
use of articles from abroad is also beneficial due to the industry being global
and the fast fashion culture recently emerging.
Fast fashion is a business model
that exploded in scale at the beginning of the 21st century (Sull
and Turnconi, 2008). This business approach combines three main ideologies:
There has been a structural
change within the apparel industry resulting in a shift in manufacturing from
the Western world to mainly developing Asian countries in the pursuit of lower
production costs (Niinimaki and Hassi, 2011). Sull and Turnconi (2008) indicate
that H&M, Zara and other high-street stores have transformed the fashion industry
by embracing fast fashion. This approach focuses on a quick response and
shortening their lead-times to achieve trendy, affordable items to the masses. It
has been suggested (Carruthers, 2003) that the importance of being able to
react almost instantly to current trends has acted like a catalyst for
retailers to continually improve their response times. The quicker response
formula has resulted in an unprecedented financial success and increased
consumption (Hayes and Jones, 2006).
Richardson (1996) suggested that
the increased focus on accelerating the manufacturing processes to shorten
response time has resulted in a shift from price and quality towards style that
can be quickly imitated and lower quality products, which captures the height
of trends. Despite the success in
shortening lead-times, this approach has resulted in accelerating trend
turnover and overconsumption (Caro and Martines-de-Albenize, 2014).
Fast fashion embraces and
utilises the increasing trend turnover year after year (Sull and Turnconi, 2008).
Previously high-street brands produced two main collections a year, spring/summer
and autumn/winter because the design, production and distribution process
required six months. However, fast fashion redesigned this strategy to significantly
reduce this time frame (Figure 1). Hayes
and Jones (2006) argue that the acceleration of the fashion industry has led to
a number of mid-season collections, which is expected to continue (Figure 2). This
is a profitable approach as fast fashion retailers will have continual sales throughout
a season, instead of two peak sales. The retailer most recognised for this
strategy is Zara, operating on a lead-time of 15 days or less (Reda, 2005;
Saini and Ryle, 2005; D’Andrea and Arnold, 2002). Moreover, Mango and H&M
have reduced their lead-times to approximately three weeks, which is a stark contrast
to the previous six months turnover (Carruthers, 2003). The retailers who
refresh their stock often in small quantities, indirectly reduce markdowns and
stakeouts as it encourages consumers to pay full price instead of waiting for
sales; increasing revenues and minimising inventory (Anson, 2002; Caro and
Martines-de-Albenize, 2014). The retailers
who do not embrace the fast fashion strategy and are not receptive to markets
trends have a significantly lower profit growth (Caro and Martines-de-Albenize,
2014).
Despite the increased profit and
renewed trends, there is a negative consequence in regards to sustainability.
Sull and Turconi (2008), stipulate that rapidly shifting trends has
significantly reduced the shelf life of garments from months to weeks, or even
days. This is widely agreed as retailers produce more collections than previously
particularly within women’s collection, leading to items having a shorter life
expectancy and increasing consumption (Francois et al., 2007; Morris and
Barnes, 2008; Schor, 2005).
“Buy less. Choose well. Make it last. Quality, not quantity. Everybody’s buying far too many clothes.”
—Vivienne Westwood (Grant, 2013).
As a consequence of fast fashion, increasing trend turnover
and significantly shortened lead-times, the amount of garments produced and
sold has dramatically increased (Caro and Martines-de-Albenize, 2014). For
instance, “clothing production doubled from 2000 to 2014 and the number of
garments exceeded 100 billion by 2014” (Cobbing and Vicaire, 2015: p1).
Furthermore, clothing sales have “doubled from 1 Trillion Dollars in 2002
to 1.8 trillion dollars in 2015, and is projected to rise to $2.1 trillion by
2025” (Cobbing and Vicaire, 2015: p1). It is therefore logical to suggest
that increasing production and profit from retailers has resulted in clothing
consumption to accelerate. The fast, inexpensive fashion has changed consumer’s
outlook on how they dress resulting in a clothing consumption global peak as an
“average person buys 60% more items of clothing and keeps them for about
half as long as 15 years ago” (Cobbing and Vicaire, 2015: p1). Moreover in
1991 the average American bought 34 items of clothing each year and by 2007, it
reached 67
This subsection highlights
significant factors which have promoted fast fashion and increasing apparel consumption.
This section reviewed the literature on the implications of globalisation and compared
arguments on the fast fashion strategy being industry driven to increasing
profit, against consumerism.
Globalisation and the changes in
the clothing consumption patterns are arguably the key factors in apparel overconsumption
and the subsequent environmental impacts (Kanemoto et al., 2014; Xu and
Dietzenbacher, 2014). The geographical
shift in manufacturing and expansion in trade has profoundly affected the
apparel industry along with other global industries. For example in 1995 the
quotas restricting world trade in textiles imports began to be officially
removed (Mair, Druckman and Jackson, 2016). Therefore, the liberalisation of
trade allowed for clothing manufacturers to relocate to developing countries,
resulting in clothing global trade to reach 4.3 million tonnes in 2013 (Caro
and Martines-de-Albenize, 2014).This business strategy not only became feasible
but profitable following the reduction in transport costs, low labour wages and
tax reductions (Dunford, 2004). This has arguably had a great significance, as
high-street chains have the ability to produce inexpensive clothes which is
crucial in the fast fashions ideology. However, increasingly affordable and
easily available clothes may lead to consumption without deep consideration and
used only a few times being disposed of, creating an unsustainable and wasteful
attitude (Niinimaki and Hassi, 2011).
Fast fashion developed
tremendously at the beginning of the 21st century as a result of
brands looking for an updated approach to increase their profits and
globalisation facilitating it (Sull and Turconi, 2008). This can result in a
cycle of increasing trend turnovers and utilising marketing skills to capture
the imagination of consumers to an impulse buying behaviour to increase consumption
as an approach to maximise their profit (Cook and Yurchisin, 2017). Choi, (2016)
implied that the success of fast fashion brands have projected them into major
players in the top league of the apparel industry. Sales from fast fashion stores
have risen 31% from 2001 to 2005, compared with the womenswear industry average
of just 1% (Murphy, 2005). Additionally, Forbes (2016) announced H&M was
worth $60.8 Billion with 3,716 stored worldwide and Zara was ranked 53 in the
World’s Most Valuable Brands with a value of $10.7 Billion. The retailers
clearly benefit financially from this business strategy, however these brands rely
on further consumption to continue their success. Therefore retailers repeatedly
refreshing their stock and employ marketing techniques to feed the “must
have” culture in order to continually increase profits (Carruthers, 2003).
This can lend weight to the notion of a disposable culture as retailers utilise
and pressurise consumers to regularly purchase items as they are constantly
under scrutiny to stay on trend (Cook and Yurchisin, 2017).
The saturation of commodity
production and consumption which is higher than ever relates to what Marx
referred to as ‘commodity fetishism’. This theory underpins the requirements of
capital, profit and commodity that encourage businesses to exploit. Marx
believed that need-satisfaction consumption resulted in serious social and
environmental ramifications (Carrier, 2010).
Furthermore, this theory argues that capitalism values commodities and
profit, whilst neglecting the human and environmental capital (Hudson and
Hudson, 2003). In relation to fast fashion, western retailer’s priorities
profit, reducing response time and increasing production, without thought of
the environmental and social damage caused. Under capitalism, it becomes easier
to desire these appealing items, than to question the environmental manner of
their production (Hudson and Hudson, 2003). Hudson and Hudson (2003) indicate the
reasoning behind the bourgeoisie’s ‘out of sight out of mind’ mentality as
commodity capitalism hides the social and the environmental relations of
production. There is arguably a disconnection between consumers purchasing
garments and the wider environmental impacts as the western society protects
themselves from witnessing the damage. Moreover, Marxism would infer the greed
of commodity fetishism and need-satisfaction consumption can intensify the damage
and in this case to the environment.
Cook and Yurchisin (2017) argue
that consumers today are far more fashion-savvy and demanding which is
pressurising retailers to increasingly refresh their stock. In order for retailers
to capture the profit, they need to predict trends and apply a quick lead-time
to meet customer changing demand. A “must have” attitude has emerged from
need-satisfaction consumption, driving fast fashion to refresh their styles
quicker year after year (Claudio, 2007). This also supports Marx’s theory of
commodity fetishism as fast fashion is arguably driven by the greed of variety-seeking/fashion-conscious
consumers as they focus on chasing the latest trends, rather than what they
need (Carrier, 2010). Consequently, they disregard the value of the social and
environmental impact to produce the commodities. Therefore, the industry is
simply utilising customer’s demand which already exists instead of pressuring
customers for more consumption. This study will consequently explore whether
consumers purchase clothes because it is necessary or to stay in fashion.
Moreover, as a result of
improving technological advances, there has been a socio-cultural change in consumer’s
lifestyles, which are constantly knowledgeable about the latest trends and
demand them in an affordable, dynamic manner (Cachon and Swinney, 2011). However,
Solomon and Rabolt (2009) stipulate that there can be negative aspects to these
consumer behaviours to individuals and societies. It has been identified that
some consumer behaviours are rooted in social pressures and the cultural value
placed on money. Exposure through fashion bloggers, social media and a
celebrity culture may create an unattainable idea of beauty and success (Solomon
and Rabolt, 2009). However, often consumers aspire to the lifestyles presented
in social media, resulting in consumers chasing trends and overconsume. This is
reflected onto the apparel industry to refresh their trends at an affordable
price. It can also be argued that young females are most affected by this
culture change, as they are embedding with a social media culture (Cook and
Yurchisin, 2017).
The ideology of fast fashion is pressurising
the Earth’s capability to subsist greenhouse gases, harmful chemicals and
manage diminishing water and land resources (figure 4). There is a high environmental cost for fast
fashion as, overall it contributes to an unsustainable and unobtainable
approach (Cobbing and Vicaire, 2015; Chen and Burns, 2006). This section
briefly outlines a proportion of the environmental damage caused to gain
context. However it is important to note that within the scope of this study,
it will not be possible to cover all of the environmental impacts.
Many high-street chains place
pressure on the manufacturing country to further reduce both costs and lead
times to remain competitive (Morris and Barnes, 2008). Studies on global trade
typically discover that international trade has shifted pollution into
developing countries, especially within manufacturing industries as their fuel
intake increases (Kanemoto et al., 2014; Peters et al., 2011b).This can lead to
environmental damage, particularly within carbon rates, energy and water
intensive practices. The textile industry is considered one of the most
polluting in the world due to its energy intensive methods which releases co2
into the atmosphere. The purchase and use of clothing contributes about 3% of
global production of co2 emissions or over 850 million tonnes (Mt) of co2 a
year, from the manufacturing, logistics and usage (Cobbing and Vicaire, 2015).
Additionally, fast fashion
expansion would not be possible without the rising use of polyester, which is
relatively inexpensive. Demand for man-made fibres, particularly polyester, has
nearly doubled in the past 15 years (Claudio, 2007). “In 2016 about 21.3
million tonnes was used in clothing, an increase of 157% from 2000” (Cobbing
and Vicaire, 2015: p3). Despite polyester lowering costs to create affordable
clothes, this fibre is made from petroleum. The manufacture of polyester and
other synthetic fabrics is an energy-intensive process requiring large amounts
of crude oil and discharging 282 billion kg of co2 emission in 2015 (Cobbing
and Vicaire, 2015).
Unlike polyester, cotton is a
natural fibre from a renewable source which is intrinsically biodegradable, however
this can often be misleading as many consumers believe it is environmentally
responsible, unfortunately that is not always the case (Chen and Burns, 2006).
In fact cotton is heavily dependent on pesticides and fungicides. It is
estimated that cotton uses only 3% of the world’s farmland, but about 25% of
the world’s pesticides (Yates, 1994). The use of pesticides kills weeds
(herbicides), insects (insecticides), fungus (fungicides), in order to allow a
high quality and amount to be grown, which is necessary for the fast fashion to
create affordable clothing. Unfortunately, a large proportion of pesticides
used in cotton production are extremely hazardous causing a significant risk of
pollution to freshwater ecosystems. These pollutants can directly affect the
biodiversity of freshwater ecosystems due to its toxicity, or indirectly by
accumulating, resulting in wildlife and species losses (WWF, 1999). Therefore, more environmentally benign and
nontoxic alternatives for these herbicides and pesticides are being called for
(Chen and Burns, 2006). However this may interrupt the volume or quality needed
for the industry.
Cotton is also reliant on a vast
amount of water, it requires 20,000 litres to produce 1kg of cotton which makes
a single T-shirt and pair of jeans (WWF, 1999). Cotton is accountable for 2.6
per cent of the global water use and approximately one fifth of the global
water footprint (Chapagain et al., 2005). Within the green market there is an
increasing production of organic cotton which prohibits the use toxic
pesticides, however does not minimise the amount of water used to grow cottons.
After reviewing the theory behind fast fashion involving shortening the production process, saving cost and increasing trend turnover to create affordable and trendy garments, it is clear that the environment has suffered from the heavily pollutant and energy intensive processes (Chen and Burns, 2006; Sull and Turnconi, 2008). Furthermore, the pressures from fast fashion has intensified and increased in scale as the environment is not a priority in the business strategy. Overall this is not a sustainable approach therefore Western retailers will eventually need to rethink their business models, and consumers their consumption choices, to reduce consumption levels (Mair, Druckman and Jackson, 2016). It is important to understand consumer perception and behaviour regarding clothing consumption in order of the industry to become more sustainable.
This section of the literature review will examine literature on sustainable consumption behaviour within the apparel industry to gain a further understanding on general consumption norms.
“Most of the damage we cause to the planet is the result of our own ignorance” (Chouinard, 2006).
Knowledge can have a powerful
influence on consumer behaviour (Brosdahl and Carpenter, 2010). Despite this,
Bhaduri and Ha-Brookshire (2011) suggest that there is limited public
understanding and general awareness of the environmental damage caused from unsustainable
clothing consumption. Similarly, there
is a lack of communication and transparency within the apparel industry
resulting in consumers’ having an insufficient understanding of the effects,
resulting in an unsustainable approach (Hill, 2012). Hill (2012) further
implies that widespread education and awareness is required as consumers simply
do not consider the environment when purchasing clothes. Within consumer
behaviour literature, there has been a clear correlation between knowledge and sustainable
behaviour (Hock and Deighton, 1989; Park et al., 1994). This knowledge is
arguably a reason for the growing demand for a green market and environmentally
friendly products (Williams, 2008).
However, there are contrasting
studies which did not report a relationship between environmental knowledge and
behaviour (Geller, 1981; Schahn and Holzer, 1990). In many cases consumer
knowledge does not necessarily translate into environmentally friendly
behaviours, after other influences have been considered. Despite this, Brosdahl
and Carpenter (2010) demonstrated that increased levels of knowledge can have a
moderate impact on clothing consumption, however to cement sustainable
behaviours other factors need to be considered. Hence, widespread sustainable
consumption can be complicated to implement.
Kim and Lynn-Damhorst (1998)
dismisses the strong relationship between knowledge and consumption as they believe
the link to be weak. It have been
suggested that customers not only have to be aware of the environmental effects
but also value the environment in order to change their behaviours. Individuals
with environmental awareness, a positive attitude and a relationship with the
environment are more likely to engage in environmental responsible behaviours
(Kim and Lynn-Damhorst, 1998) (figure 5). Moreover, Brosdahl and Carpenter,
2010 imply that individual’s with a degree of emotional attachment to the
environment may be inclined to sustainable consumption.
Nevertheless, concern for the environment alone may not be
sufficient resulting in a Value- action gap (Shove, 2009). This refers to
consumers who have green values but who do not always act in accordance with
them. Krause (1993) explained that self-labelled environmentalist at times did
not adjust their behaviour to deal with environmental problems. Moreover, Shove
(2009) implies an Attitude-Behaviour-Choice model is needed to overcome this as
proactiveness is required rather than concerned. In addition, this may involve the breaking down of old habits
and establishing new ones, where sustainability is prioritised.
Kim and Lynn-Damhorst (1998)
demonstrate that environmental awareness and concern are not a certain equation
for environmental consumption. It is unclear whether stated concern for the
environment translates directly into actual purchase behaviour of eco-friendly
products. This could be due to consumer’s prioritising price and style over
sustainability within the decision making process (Kim and Lynn-Damhorst,
1998). Furthermore, Shove (2009) indicates that environmental behaviour depends
upon a mixture of positive motivators and negative barriers. The fast fashion
approach provides significantly more barriers and motivating factor for
overconsumption, resulting in an unsustainable system. For instance, a
proportion of retailers are finding it more difficult to sell organic and
recycled textiles products because of their higher price and longer lead times
over regular items (Brosdahl and Carpenter, 2010).
Similarly, Straughan and Robert
(1999) remark that consumers who are empowered and believe they have an impact
on the environment through their choices are more willing to make eco-friendly
decisions. However within Hill’s (2012) study, consumers have suggested that
they believe their action to have a limited effect on the overall environmental
impacts. Therefore, it appears that knowledge and concern for the environment alone
may not be enough to motivate consumers to seek out environmentally friendly
product. Therefore additional motivations provided by the fashion industry will
be beneficial for sustainable consumption.
This research topic widely affects
a large proportion of people as clothes are commonly regarded as essential
commodities (Claudio, 2007). However, this research project has selected to
concentrate the findings within the demographic of females aged from 18-25.
Firstly, this demographic has been selected because of their long future of
potential consumer decisions, consequentially it is crucial to understand their
perceptions and consumption behaviours (Bhaduri and Ha-Brookshire, 2011 and
Williams and Page, 2011). The participants would have been born between 1998
and 1991 as they are arguably part of the globalisation generation. They have
grown alongside technical developments and rapidly intensifying industries
including the textile industry, where expectations for instant results are
important (Cachon and Swinney, 2011). In addition, women are arguably the world’s
most powerful consumers, as they drive 70-80% of all consumers purchasing,
through a combination of their buying power and influence. Lastly, Cook and
Yurchisin (2017) argue that fast fashion’s target market is young, fashion
conscious females.
The investigation into young
female’s clothing consumption behaviour in relation to fast fashion is of
continuing importance, due to consequential social and environmental
impacts. This business strategy is
predicted to continue, therefore intensifying the environmental pressures. It is important for this to be understood so
the environment can be respected and protected. Raising awareness and
environmental concern is a key method of improving these issues. However,
change will also be required within the apparel industry.
The literature review has
provided evidence that general clothing consumption norms have increased within
the 21st Century and the emergence of fast fashion (Sull and
Turconi, 2008). Therefore, it would be beneficial to identify what consumption
norms are within this demographic to, support or challenge the literature. The literature provides two different
theories of increasing consumption. The first is potentially due to retailer’s
concentration on increasing profits and expanding their business globally.
However, a separate argument suggests that retailers are simply meeting
consumer demands for increasing trend turnover (Sull and Turconi, 2008).
Consumer expectation and behaviours have changed due to technical advances and
lifestyle adjustments which followed. Hence during the research, it would be
valuable to investigate consumption influences and access whether consumers are
chasing the trends or creating them. The semi-structured interviews would be
most appropriate methods to investigate this.
Moreover, Hill (2012) and
Brosdahl and Carpenter (2010) stipulate that a lack of general environmental
knowledge acts as a barrier for sustainable shopping. However, Hill’s research
was taken in USA, therefore it would be appropriate to establish the level of
consumer knowledge for the environmental impacts of the apparel industry. In
addition, it would be valuable to explore other potential barriers to
sustainable clothing consumption.
Based on the literature, the
following research questions have been identified:
This chapter justifies the selection of the research methods
in this study in regards to its practicality and how they contribute to the
completion of the objectives. This involves validating why they are suitable
specifically to this research project, whilst acknowledging potential
limitations. Inductive research will be first assessed, followed by
quantitative and qualitative research approaches. Next, the methods of
triangulation will be discussed in relation to this dissertation. The practice
of questionnaires and semi-structured interviews will also be debated. Finally,
an ethical consideration was also taken into consideration to ensure consent is
given when carrying out the data collection.
Research can be classified into either inductive or
deductive research. Kitchin and Tate (2000) refer to inductive reasoning as
collecting the research and analysing the data before a theory is put together-
prohibiting any biased ideas. The research then develops concepts and
understandings from patterns in the data, contrasting from deductive reasoning. This process collects data in order to assess
hypotheses or theories (Taylor et al., 2015).
However, it should be noted that pure induction is impossible as
assumption is a natural process and approaching research with some goals and
questions in mind is valuable. In relation to this study, there are limited
theories on fast fashion because of its recent emergence. This research does
not aim to support or oppose a theory but access the findings; an inductive
approach is appropriate as it is guided by research objectives (Kitchin and
Tate, 2000)
Despite this methodology using inductive reasoning, a
proportion of questions were inspired from the literature. Fellows and Liu
(2008, p. 62) state that ‘Literature should not merely be found and reviewed;
the body of relevant literature from previous research must be reviewed
critically. Therefore, the literature must be considered in the creation of
both data collections. An example of how the literature has been incorporated
into the questionnaire can be seen in the open-ended question, asking
participants knowledge on the environmental impacts of manufacturing clothes. Bhaduri and Ha-Brookshire (2011) and Hill
(2012) depict an image of limited public knowledge which could be a factor
towards fast fashion. Hill’s (2012) study involves exploring undergraduate’s
knowledge of environmental impacts in the USA.
Subsequently, it would be beneficial for this study to investigate
whether this demographic has a similar outlook.
Quantitative and qualitative research methods are the two
leading approaches which basic ideals profoundly oppose one another (Feilzer,
2010). Quantitative research examines the relationship between variables by
collecting and analysing numerical data expressed in numbers or scores meaning
analysis may be relatively straightforward (Feilzer, 2010). Clark and Ivankova
(2016) imply that quantitative research can increase validity when
investigating general ideas within a larger number of participants. Subsequently,
adopting this approach to achieve the aim of investigating clothing consumption
norms would be appropriate. However, this research method would not be
appropriate to fulfil the objective of understanding why people have increased
their consumption.
Conversely, Qualitative data focuses on exploring
individuals’ experiences with a phenomenon by collecting and analysing
narrative expressed in words or images (Feilzer, 2010). By adopting this
method, the research can use social processes to recognise and explain avenues
of thought which quantitative methods cannot. Nevertheless, criticism of this
method illustrates the approaches lack of ability to identify with the scale
and numbers of research (Feilzer, 2010), which this study requires to fully
understand consumption norms. Moreover, this approach involved additional time
to analyse due to interpretation and coding, although this research method will
provide the depth necessary to understand participants shopping norms and
barriers prohibiting sustainable consumption. These two forms of methodology
fundamentally contrast each other however, Denzin and Lincoln (2011)
illustrates that mixed methods offers a third alternative. This approach is
becoming increasingly common as it argues that the two methodological
approaches are compatible and combat one another’s limitation.
In addition, quantitative research is advocated by
Positivism as it considers size, magnitude and the elimination of extraneous
variables to support standardised testing (Kidder, Judd and Smith 1986; Holt,
1998). While this is important for this study to identify consumer norms
constructivism would contest quantitative data for its inability to measure
opinion, perceptions and social phenomena (Holt, 1998). This research project overcame
the limitations between the constructivist and positivist paradigm by adopting
a pacifist approach referred to as pragmatism, which supports a mixed
methodology approach.
Despite these strengths, incorporating both methods may
contradict one another therefore mixed methods may not be as comparable as
advocates propose (Brannen, 1992). It is questionable whether quantitative and
qualitative research supports one another despite them examining apparently
similar issues. Therefore to overcome this limitation of disconnection a
sequential design was embraced to ensure both quantitative and qualitative data
are aligned with each other. In relation to this study, the quantitative data was
accessed before the qualitative data collection began.
The coalition of quantitative and qualitative research
methods to produce the findings of this dissertation, will also help to achieve
triangulation (Flick, 2014).
Methodological triangulation is the most commonly used form of
triangulation, which uses multiple research methods to produce more accurate
and in-depth findings Neuman (2014). This process adopts two different data
collection which can be cross referenced, ensuring that both data collections
supports and reflects one another. Hence this process decrease biases, increase
validity and strengthens the study as the data can minimize one another’s
weaknesses (Joslin & Müller, 2016).
This research adopted across methods triangulation as this
study employed both qualitative and quantitative data collection to gain both
depth and breadth (Figure 6) (Denzin, 1970; Tashakkori and Teddlie, 2009). A
combination of quantitative questionnaire aimed to understand general clothing
consumption norms and semi-structured interviews acting to provide and in-depth
understanding of participant’s influences and barriers.
Although adopting a mixed methods approach, triangulation
can increase validity, it can also be problematic as undertaking two methods
would prove to be more time consuming than a single method strategy (Brannen,
1992). This research has taken this into consideration by allowing extra time
for the data collection and incorporating the pilot test interview into the
data collection. A clear organisation of the process can ensure the research
collection will be streamlined and time-cost effective (Figure 7).
Flowerdew and Martin (2005, p79) define questionnaires as
“an indispensable tool when primary data are required about people, their
behaviour, attitudes and opinions.” Using questionnaires to collect
primary data can have significant cost-time benefits as large amounts of data
can be collected in a short amount of time. Moreover, Carr (1994) argued that
questionnaires limit researcher-participant contact and involvement therefore
decrease biases. Therefore, this research approach would be useful for
achieving the objectives to discover general females shopping behaviours and
attitudes.
This approach will produce mainly quantitative data,
although some open-ended questions will be integrated into the questionnaire;
open questions do not provide a definitive choice of answers (Feilzer, 2010).
This process began to address the research question of investigating the amount
of environmental knowledge participants know about the fashion industry.
Semi-structured interviews will be used in order to collect
qualitative data as part of this research’s mixed methods approach. This approach was carried out in order to
explore opinions and achieved honest thoughts regarding clothing consumption
(Creswell, 2013). Semi- structured interviews are the most appropriate
technique to increase communication with participants, in order to gain an
in-depth understanding of their knowledge of environmental issues within the
fashion industry, shopping influence and sustainable shopping barriers.
The semi-structured style is referred to as a topic guided
interview, meaning participants are asked specific questions. However, the
interviewees will be given the flexibility to expand on their key interests
without being held to a rigid structure (Cobin and Strass, 2015; Whittaker and
Dawsonera, 2009). The same initial research questions are asked, although
depending on the participant’s response certain opinions could be expanded by
asking further in depth questions. Moreover, if a participant provides a short
response, then another questions such as “Why do you think that?”
could be asked to gain further depth. This method will consequently result in a
detailed analysis. Whilst the key
research questions create a soft structure, it also ensures the interviews are
aligned to the questionnaires findings and specific avenues of enquiry could be
explored (Kitchin & Tate, 2013).
In addition, to streamline the semi-structured interviews to
the questionnaire, some of the questions asked in the interview were based of
the findings from the questionnaire. This method can validate findings within
the quantitative data and strengthen the research (Clark and Ivankova 2016). An
example of how the researcher has used the findings from the questionnaires to
construct a main topic question can be seen in presentation of facts about the
negative impacts and simply asking for any comments and questions. Furthermore,
asking if the participants wish to comment on the facts could allow for more
in-depth answers. This was in response to
an overwhelming amount of participants in the questionnaire stating that they
don’t know of any environmental impacts caused by the manufacturing of clothes.
The interviewees were required to read an information sheet
and sign the consent form, stating they understand what the interview will
consist of. The consent form also declared that the interviews would be
recorded as part of the research. The interviews were held in quiet locations
to guarantee privacy and to promote open and honest answers (Rice and Ezzy,
1999). These locations were either within the University or at the
participant’s residence after requiring their permission which resulted in a
relaxed atmosphere aimed to maximise findings. Other ways to capitalise on
information can be gained by improving interview skills as a researcher, such
as: conversational skills and listening skills to ensure a participant is not interrupted
(Creswell, 2013). Researcher
interruption can have a negative impact in research validity as participant’s
thoughts and answers can be altered in the process (Whittaker and Dawsonera,
2009). Therefore it is important for the researcher to remain impartial and
allow the answers to unravel naturally.
The interviews varied in duration from 13 minutes to 18
minutes. This was a result of the semi-structured style as the topic questions
were asked to all participants and some questions were expanded upon for
different lengths, whilst other did not veer away.
The semi-structured interviews also adopted a narrative
method as a way of enhancing the research to access and capture experiences (Davoudi
et al., 2016). This approach suggests that human experience has a crucial
narrative which is organised into a sequential order (Kleres, 2010). Hence,
participant’s “specific “narrative” knowledge; the knowledge of how things
have come about” is significant in this study (Kleres, 2010). This research aims to discover consumption
influences and sustainable barriers which may be impacted by participant’s experiences.
Following the literature review, the sampling demographic
has been selected to females aged from 18-25, due to their higher involvement
in fast fashion. Consequently,
systematic sample will be adopted to ensure the data accurately reflects the
populations being studied. Unlike random sampling, systematic sample are
interested in a particular group, however covers the entire sampling frame
(Investopedia, 2015).
In order to access this social group, an online
questionnaire using a social media platform would be appropriate. Posts on
Facebook were created to ask for anyone who is a female aged from 18-25 and
would be willing to take part in a short questionnaire on fast fashion and
clothing consumption.
The sample group for the semi-structured interviews will be
small because of the depth of information. Additionally, the number of
participants will be guided by a theoretical principle called saturation
(Glaser and Strauss, 1967). This is the point in which the information begins
to repeat itself. The purpose of the interviews is to explore options rather
than gather a large number of participants with similar experiences (Hennink, 2011).
Purposive sampling was selected as the appropriate sampling
method. This sampling method was used as it was clear which participants would
have been appropriate for this study (Rice and Ezzy, 1999). Despite this,
participants remained anonymous for this research.
To maximise reliability and gain the scope needed to achieve
the studies objectives, the target of 100 participants has been created.
However, before the questionnaires were launched it was pilot-tested twice, to ensure
clarity and interpretation (Creswell, 2013). The first attempt is shown in
appendix X. After the first pilot-test, the following points were recorded.
Therefore, a rewording of the open-ended question followed
to increase clarity and refined the interviews (Creswell, 2013). In addition,
as the participants suggested that they would be willing to spend more time on
the questionnaire, therefore, the questionnaire was expanded to add a set of
scaled questions, to access what participants considered when shopping. The
scale was also from 1-6, meaning there was no neutral or middle option, forcing
the participants to choose a side. The design of the questionnaire was mindful
to remain within a 5 minute time limit.
A short paragraph at the beginning of the questionnaire about what this
research will be used for was also added to increase interest and understanding
about the questionnaire. The second
pilot’s feedback involved a positive understanding to all the questions which
did not predict negative interpretation of the open-ended questions and
positive attitude to the duration of the questionnaire. Therefore this
signalled that this questionnaire was ready to be released, (see appendix X for
the final questionnaire).
With the demographic, this research does not need a
selection process because it is the norm to wears clothes and their opinions
are valid (Martinez de Albeniz, Felipe Caro Victor, 2014). This approach has
selected certain characteristics meaning in many cases justified
generalisations can be made as it can be assumed that the interviewees had
shared values. However, this should be adopted with caution as the interviewees
have other variables.
Moreover, this form of non-probability sampling is a
practical approach for this study (Rice and Ezzy, 1999), whereas random
sampling would be problematic. Although, all participants were from the general
public to ensure a variety of individuals, a range of ages, socio-economic
backgrounds and employment were used.
In many circumstances predicting how interviewees will
interpret the interview questions can be difficult. A lack of clarity within questions can create
confusion and therefore decrease the reliability of a study’s findings
(Creswell, 2013). To overcome this problem typically researchers conduct a few
pilot interviews, within their chosen demography (Hennink, 2011). However, due
to time constraints this research incorporated pilot-testing within the first
interview. After the interview the participant was asked whether they
understood the questions and if not if they could be rephrased. The `participants provided encouraging
feedback involving a clear understanding and order of the questions, along with
a positive attitude of the length of the Interview. After the review of this
pilot test, the semi-structured interview plan was continued and the pilot data
was also included in the research’s data collection (Appendix x). The sampling
of the five other interviews then began.
It is necessary to use both quantitative and qualitative
analysis strategies to present and discuss the raw findings from this
research.
Microsoft Excel was used to analyse the quantitative data
from the questionnaires. Microsoft Excel was selected as the most appropriate
option because of its ability to produce charts and tables allowing the
numerical data to be understood by a single figure (Newing, 2011). The presentation
of each question assessed to ensure the data is clear to read and understand,
this may involve employing a variety of charts and tables.
The qualitative findings from the semi-structured interviews was analysed thematically, adopting Clarke and Braun (2006) method. This process identified key words or phrases from the transcripts. The process then groups the key findings into a lower and higher order of themes. This process is appropriate for this data as it allows key themes and patterns to be identifies across various transcripts. This process will be further discussed in the findings chapter.
Throughout the data collection process, ethical procedures
should be maintained to ensure the data is to a high standard (Rudesteram and
Newton, 2007). It is also important to
note that using a mixed methods approach require separate ethical
considerations for the questionnaires and the interviews. To overcome this, the questionnaires were anonymous
and the researcher’s university email address was provided, if they wished to
contact to withdraw. If a member of the
general public wishes not takes part, they are not obliged to.
Within qualitative research, ethical consideration and
obtaining consent was a significant process in validating the data (Rudesteram
and Newton, 2007). This process ensures mutual trust and confidentiality which
consequently increases the value and accuracy of the findings. The participants
were emailed prior to the interview, declaring what the interview would contain
and approximately now long they should expect the duration to be. At the start
of the interview they will be provided with an information sheet and consent
form to sign. This stated that any information provided would be anonymous and
safety stored away from the raw data. At both of these stages the participants
were given the opportunity to opt out. The consent forms that the contact
information of the researcher on and the participants took a copy of this away
with them. After the interviews the participants received a follow up email,
thanking them for their time and participants in this research data collection.
Sensitivity is a significant part of conducting qualitative
research in order to increase data collection (Rudesteram and Newton,
2007). Sensitivity should be embraced
throughout the whole process of the interviews and across the participants. A
key part of this involves listening carefully to the answers given, understanding
what they mean and asking further questions to gain a great depth (Strauss and
Corbin, 2015; Whittaker and Dawsonera, 2009). This also means respecting
participant’s responses as their opinions are valid and they can provide
another unexpected viewpoint.
Every research project faces limitation and this study was
no exception, however steps were put in place to minimize these limitations and
increase the integrity of the study. Some limitations to the study are that the
participants who took part in the semi-structured interview were aged from
20-22. To gain a greater representation of general consumption norms a more
varied sample size, within the chosen demographic, would be advised. Despite
this the participants were selected on the basis on having different
backgrounds and therefore viewpoint. A dental nurse, a student studying
prosthetic make-up and a trainee teacher were amongst the participants selected
to represent females aged 18-25. However, it should be recognized other options
may vary within the demographic of this research as are a variety of other
characteristics which could have an impact of their opinions and consumption.
However, in order to understand general clothing consumptions it was important
to have an inclusive research.
Whilst collecting the data the researcher will remain
mindful not to create any biased responses. However, this research topic widely
affects a large proportion of people, including the researcher. This could be valuable as having an
understanding of the research project is significant in identifying key
findings. In addition, the researcher is a female aged 22, consequently within
the demographic and potentially have common believes. This can relax participants
and allow them to be open with their responses. Nevertheless, it is important
to allow the patterns and themes to emerge naturally, without interface.
After considering Neuman’s (2014, p167) opinion on combining
both quantitative and qualitative research as it results in “richer and
more comprehensive” research, a conclusion of adopting a mixed methods
approach would be appropriate for this research topic. This methodology will
allow this project to collect a wide range of data regarding clothing
consumption habits, while investigate people’s perceptions and influences of
fast fashion. Overall the questionnaires and semi-structured interviews will
enable the research to be well-rounded and complete the objectives of the
dissertation.
This chapter presents and discusses the findings of the primary
data for the research into apparel consumption. After using the methods stated
within chapter three, the data was analysed to identify the main aspects for
discussion in the following chapter. The quantitative data was statically
analysed using Excel to produce descriptive statistics. Whereas, the qualitative
interviews, was analysed thematically using Clarke and Braun (2006) method. The
findings from both the questionnaire and interviews will be cross referenced to
ensure all aspects are included. Moreover the outcomes will be compared to
existing literature to establish whether the findings support, oppose current
theories or if this data provides new information.
A total of 100
respondents filled out the online questionnaire; either through a social media
platform or via email. The questionnaire consisted of 12 questions which mainly
included closed questions and a scale framework, therefore using Excel was
deemed the most appropriate method to create descriptive statistics.
Statistical Package for the Social Sciences (SPSS) would not be required to
analyse this data due to the small scale of this data. Loether and McTavish
(1974) emphasise the significance of presenting relevant and clear information.
Therefore the findings have been presented in a variety of visually attractive
and clear graphs and charts, (appendix X).
The 6 interviews which were collected, presented a number of
common opinions and ideas. Due to clear patterns and themes emerging while
completing the interviews, it was suitable to analyse the interviews thematically.
Clarke and Braun (2006) thematically analysis method was adopted as it provided
clear guidelines of creating themes from the interview transcripts (Figure 8).
1. Phase one involved transcribing the interviews recorded,
re-reading them and highlighting anything of significance, in order to gain an
accurate understanding of the participant’s responses, (appendix X).
2. Once the data had become familiar, collecting initial
themes and recurring phases began. This is presented in a list of significant
findings shown in the raw data in appendix X. The phases in the list were all
classified as significant, frequent and linked to the objective of the study.
3. This list was further analysed as some of the phrases had
similar expressions or meaning. The list was grouped into similarity and
created a lower order or themes.
4. These groups were
then review and generated general themes and provided an overall story from the
research.
5. The fifth phase involves conjoining those initial themes,
resulting in two end themes: increasing general consumption and lack of
knowledge. Each theme has three
subthemes which will also be discussed. It is also important to note that these
themes contribute toward unsustainable clothing consumption.
This section analyses the data from the questionnaires and
interviews and discusses them in relation to the objectives of the research
study. After the statistical and thematic analysis on both sets of data, there
are two main themes emerging from the findings. These themes can be further
broken down into subsections to provide critical analysis (see appendix X).
1. Increasing general consumption
2. Lack of environmental
knowledge
The structure of this section will be conducted in order of
the data collection: quantitative followed by qualitative. This approach was adopted to capture scale in
regards to general consumption and scope to identify influences and barriers.
One of the aims for the
questionnaire was to investigate general consumption norms within females aged 18-25.
It is important for the research to recognize how participants shop before
attempting to understand reasons behind participant’s consumption behaviour.
Figure 9 clearly presents that the
highest proportion of participants shop monthly with a majority of 59%. In
addition, 20% of participants shop weekly supporting the theory of apparel
overconsumption (Cobbing and Vicaire, 2015: Sull and Turnconi, 2008). 80% of the
participants shop once or more in a month, presenting consumption norms to be
high within the participants. This trend is also represented in the interviews.
This illustrates that a high
proportion of the participants shop for clothes regularly, suggesting that apparel
consumption norms are weekly or monthly within this sample population.
Consequently, one may argue that an over consumption culture is present as the
fast fashion strategy is widely affecting or enabling consumption to increase,
due to the readily available clothes and affordable prices (Reda, 2005). Cobbing
and Vicaire (2015) also predict that the fast fashion cycle will continue to
accelerate alongside consumption trends, suggesting weekly and monthly
consumption will continue to be the new norm.
The research indicated that
accelerating trend turnover could be a factor in increasing general consumption
as consumers are in pursuit of the latest styles which therefore requires continual
purchasing (Carruthers, 2003).
These findings imply that
although this generation may go shopping regularly, they are only purchasing a
small amount of items at a relatively low expense. For instance, 79% of participants purchased 2
or 3 items each shopping trip which may cost from £21-£40, as 1/3 of the
participants stated this was their average spend per shopping trip. This could
correlate to increasing trend turnovers, as Sull and Turnconi (2008) imply that
apparel items have a short fashionable duration as new collections are
constantly being released. Therefore, in order for consumers to remain on
trend, regular consumption is required, illustrating that a fast fashion
culture is present. This also helps
explains the quantity of their shopping trips, because consumers are aware of upcoming
trends therefore are unwilling to purchases large amount of clothes knowing
they will not be fashionable for a long time (Carruthers, 2003). Moreover, findings
from the interviews also suggest the correlation between buying fewer items at
a lower price as a result of trend turnover and fast fashion.
Overall, participants are likely
to purchase fewer items, more frequently to stay on trend. Fast fashion’s
affordable and readily available items enable consumers to do this,
contributing to increasing apparel consumption (Sull and Turnconi, 2008). However it would be beneficial for the
research to understand why staying on trend is valued by the participants.
The following subsection discussed
the importance the participant’s place on “looking good”. This
emerging idea of constantly wanting to look good and stay on trend can also
link to increasing trend turnover and results in overconsumption which is
facilitated by fast fashion (Cachon and Swinney, 2011).
Style has been established as a
significant purchasing factor in figure 12. Compared, to the other influences
including price, quality and environmental sustainability, style had the
highest amount of participants selecting 6 in the scale. 40% of participants
stated that style was greatly considered when shopping. As style is viewed as
the most important factor when purchasing a clothing item and the trend turnover
in increase, the result is increased apparel consumption as consumers chase the
trends.
In addition, figure 13 illustrates
that 52% of participants are influenced by staying on trend when purchasing a
new item and 25% of participants are influenced by social media when shopping
for clothes. These statistics suggest that general consumption norms are
influenced by the importance of appearance (Solomon and Rabolt, 2009). This can
also be demonstrated in the amount of time a consumer wears an item of
clothing.
Figure 14 presents that 65% of
participants will only wear an evening garment between 1-19 times. This implies
that clothes do not have a long life expectancy, leading clothing overconsumption
and a disposable culture. This could link to accelerating trend turnover and
the importance of appearance as Sull and Turnconi (2008) indicated that trends
can alter monthly, weekly or even daily. Therefore, items of clothing may only
be worn a small amount of times before they are regarded as unfashionable. However,
poor quality could also have an impact on the amount of wears (Carruthers, 2003).
However, the contrast between the amount an evening item is worn and casual
wear indicates that the correlation is with trends and not quality (appendix X).
Solomon and Rabolt (2009) further suggest that increasing consumption is linked
to cultural changes within social media and lifestyle expectations, which place
a greater value on appearance and commodities. Moreover, there is a developing
perception linking commodities to success and wealth as consumers wish to
represent their wealth through their belongings and publicise it via social
media (Solomon and Rabolt, 2009). Therefore,
this was selected as a line of interest, to be expanded upon within the interviews.
The findings from the interviews
support the assumptions that increasing apparel consumption links to the importance
of appearance found in the questionnaire and literature. These findings imply
the significance this generation places on staying on trend, linking to social
pressures, supporting Solomon and Rabolt (2009). The interviewees suggest that
a social media and a celebrity culture has contributed to the importance of
looking good as it effects their daily lives and may often create unrealistic
expectation. Despite this, throughout history, presenting yourself in an
attractive manner has always been important, although following technical
advances, increasing communication and social media, our lives are more
transparent than ever (Morris and Barnes, 2008). This could have intensified
consumer’s attitudes for appearance and arguably this generation is greatly
affected. Social media and fast fashion
emerged within a similar time period and have supported and enhanced one
another’s businesses (Cobbing and Vicaire, 2015). For instance social media can
advertise trends and new collections worldwide creating a “must have”
attitude for consumers to buy into, leading to apparel overconsumption. Individual
behaviours are deeply embedded in social situations, institutional context and
cultural norms (shove 2009). Therefore, the cultural value on appearance and
trend has translated into consumption.
Furthermore, the research finding
indicated an alternative reason for increasing apparel consumption; poor
quality clothing. Niinimaki and Hassi (2011) stipulate that fast fashion priorities
reducing lead-times and manufacturing expenses in order to meet demands and
increase profits. However, this process neglects clothing quality and
durability as it is no longer desirable within trend turnover.
Figure 15 demonstrates that 42%
of participants purchase clothes to replace discarded or worn clothes. This
could potentially be due to the poor quality clothes, the fast fashion business
strategy produces.
Figure 16 illustrates that
participant’s highly regard quality when purchasing products as 35% selected 5
in the scale. Quality is generally not considered at the same level as style,
although it is still a key factor in the decision making process. The comparison
of figure 15 and figure 16 suggests that quality is valued by the questionnaire
participants, however replacing clothes is a significant reason to shop and overconsumption.
This was viewed as a line of interest and expanded upon in the interviews.
The overall attitude from the
interviews was that quality is significantly considered in the purchasing
decision, as the participants wanted clothes to last longer, particularly basic
items such as vest tops. All of the participants in the interviews declared
that replacing worn or poor quality clothes was a reason for shopping. The
participants stated a sense of disappointment and general acceptance that some
clothes simply do not have a long life expectancy, in regards to wear and tear. Additionally, interviewees 2, 3, 4 implied
that wearing worn or “tatty” clothes did not look professional or
stylish. Due to style and appearance being considered highly and poor quality
clothes having a negative impact on their appearance, over consumption is an
outcome (Cachon and Swinney, 2011). This once again highlights the style and appearance
as the dominate factor.
The findings within the
questionnaires and interviews support the industry driven theory, suggesting
retailers direct the industry towards overconsumption to increase their profits
(Hayes and Jones, 2006). The fast fashion approach arguably purposely produces
poor quality clothes, to reduce material and production expenses, despite
consumer demand for durability and high quality. The short life span of apparel
garments consequently results in overconsumption and continues the cycle of
fast fashion, needed for retailers to survive (Martinez de Albeniz and Victor,
2014).
Despite this, Cook and Yurchisin
(2017) argued that fast fashion retailers are merely capturing consumer
demands. In order for retailers to remain on trend they must frequently refresh
their inventory, therefore providing a quick lead-time and quality, simply is
not possible. Cachon and Swinney (2011) also suggest that consumers want to
continually update their style and they will not have a garment for long,
therefore it is not necessary for retailers to produce durable items. However, the
interviews support the industry driven theory as interviewees 1, 3, 5 and 6 highlighted
frustrations as they want high quality garments which have a longer life
expectancy. However unfortunately, it is difficult to find high quality clothes
as high expense does not necessary translate to quality and durability.
Overall, poor quality clothing is
an outcome of fast fashion as quality is neglected in high speed and mass
production. This affects consumers as it is difficult to find resilience and
durability, despite consumers regarding quality highly. Shove (2009) indicated
that consumers often find themselves “locked in” to unsustainable
behaviours, in this case consumers are locked into purchasing poor quality
clothes leading to a cycle of overconsumption, which could be prohibited by
improving the durability of garments.
The above demonstrates that
overconsumption is present within the participants. The findings also present
possible reasons for the increasing consumption: increasing trend turnover, the
importance of appearance and poor quality clothing. These are all significant
factors within the fast fashions ideology, therefore it could be suggested that
fast fashion has contributed to increasing consumption (Sull and Turnconi, 2008).
The other key theme presented
within the findings of both the questionnaires and interviews was a high
proportion a general unawareness and lack of knowledge for the environmental
impacts caused from the apparel industry. The open-ended question from the
questionnaires depicted a lack of general environmental knowledge as 54% of the
participant stated that they did not know any environmental impacts caused from
the manufacturing of clothing. This supported Hill’s (2012) argument of
consumers having insufficient environmental awareness within the apparel
industry, particularly within a younger generation. Furthermore, 20 participants,
who did state some environmental impacts of manufacturing clothes, consisted of
general effects regarding pollution. Despite
an environmental effect being stated, this answer is general to many industries
and still highlights a lack of environmental knowledge. Although from the 100 questionnaire responses,
only 4 participants provided a few sentences describing the environmental
impact, emphasising the overwhelming norm of the lack of environmental
knowledge supporting Hill’s (2012) argument for unawareness and opacity within
the environmental effects. The
likelihood that consumers will shop sustainably, without a cohesive
understanding of the environmental impacts is improbable (Brosdahl and
Carpenter, 2010). The lack of knowledge
is also illustrated in the interview participants. The interview structure
included a list of environmental effect (appendix X) and all of the
participants were shocked and unaware of these impacts.
This further supports the lack of
environmental knowledge within the participants. The interviewees either were
simply ignorant to the implication or unaware of the scale and extent of the
damage. Furthermore, interviewee 4, 5 and 6 also represented the confusion
surrounding cotton’s environmental friendly perception contrasting from the
realistic impacts (Chen and Burns, 2006). Interviewee 6 further indicated that
100% cotton products were often strongly and positively advertised, alluding to
cotton being environmentally responsible. Therefore, the insufficient
understanding could impact on increasing consumption and benefit the fast
fashion strategy as consumers are unaware of their behaviours having a negative
impact. Moreover, uneducated and disconnected consumers are further unwilling to
alter their consumption behaviours (Dickson, 2000). Brosdahl and Carpenter (2010)
stipulate that there is a lack of transparency within the industry, arguably
protecting themselves and their profits, supporting the commodity fetishism as
the industry is pressuring overconsumption.
Additionally, Kim and Damhorst
(1998) imply that there is a general misconception and confusion between
ethical and environmental effects. There were also a proportion of the questionnaire
respondents who stated ethical impacts rather than environmental for example
“sweatshops” and “low wages”. The findings in the
interviews also indicate there is a higher amount of ethical knowledge compared
to environmental, when asked the difference.
The findings from this research
indicate that ethical implication are wider known and prioritised supporting
Kim and Damhorst’s (1998). Hudson and Hudson (2003) argue that fair trade
neglects the environmental problems of overconsumption, giving people the false
impression that they can improve environmental and social conditions by
consuming differently, ignoring the importance of reducing consumption. The
findings from this research indicate that there is an overwhelming lack of environmental
knowledge, supporting Hills (2012) argument, overall resulting in an
unsustainable industry driven by overconsumption.
The previous subsection provided
an insight into the lack of awareness for the environmental impacts within the
apparel industry. This subsection, builds
on Brosdahl and Carpenter (2010) argument that concern of the environment is
significant with environmentally friendly consumption.
Figure 17 implies that
environmental sustainability is considered the least out of style, price and
quality. 70% of the questionnaire
responses selected 1 and 2 in the scale of influence, when purchasing an item
of clothing. Table 7 and figure 17
demonstrate a lack of awareness and concern for the environment is present resulting
in a pattern of consumption which is fundamentally unsustainable. A lack of
concern for the environment is also acknowledged with the interviews participants
2 and 4.
Participants 2 and 4 indicated
that their focus and concern was for style and the need to be fashionable,
rather than the environment. After discussing the environmental impacts, both
participants stated their disbelief but that this would not affect their
consumption behaviour as being fashion was deemed more important. Consumers who have a low level of
environmental knowledge and interest will be further improbable to have sustainable
consumption behaviour, contributing to overconsumption (Brosdahl and Carpenter,
2010). The apparel industry itself is not responsible for the lack of concern.
It is arguably a consequence of globalisation, technical advances and the
lifestyles adjustments which have followed, resulting in more screen time,
rather than time spent in the natural environment creating a disconnection (Mair,
Druckman and Jackson, 2016).
Nevertheless, other interviewees did stipulate a concern for the
environment.
These participants stated a
limited knowledge of the environmental impacts however they were shocked and
concerned with the impacts and they would be interested in increasing their
understanding. They also indicated their disappointment with the life
expectancy of clothes and were open minded about consuming less therefore they
would probably be more willing to shop sustainably, however they did suggest it would be difficult. The
fast fashion industry has not impacted on participants concern for the
environment but it has prohibited them from lowering their consumption (Sull
and Turconi, 2008). This represents two
types of participants within this research: those who are concerned about
environmental impacts and those who are not. It has been suggested that having
a connection to nature may be a reason behind environmental concern (Dickson, 2000)
(Table 10). Although, it is important acknowledge there may be other factors
within environmental concern.
Interviewee 1 also implied that
even if she was educated and concerned in the environmental impact, it would
have a limited impact on her shopping behaviour due to the insufficient advice
and advertising regarding where to purchase sustainable garments (Kim and
Damhorst, 1998).
This subsection acknowledges
participants frustration with that lack of guidance on sustainable and
environmentally friendly apparel retailers. Chen and Burns (2006) stipulate
that a green market within the apparel industry has recently emerged, however
the market has yet to become mainstream. There is no relevant literature
disusing the general unawareness of sustainable apparel practices stemming from
insufficient advice and advertisement. The findings from the questionnaire represent
that unawareness of sustainable apparel practices is the norm. 63 respondents stated that they did
not know how to shop in a sustainable manner, suggesting this is the norm
within this demographic.
Table 12 indicates the general
confusion for sustainable apparel practices. This could be linked to the lack
of information and guidance on how consumers can reduce their environmental
impacts. The combination of uneducated apparel consumers and a lack of
direction, to reduce the environmental impacts can result in an unsustainable
system. Participant’s unawareness on where to shop for sustainable clothes was
also illustrated with the interviews.
The interviews imply that
consumers are uninformed about the issues and how they can reduce their impacts
and shop more sustainability. This will overall contribute to an unsustainable
system and benefit fast fashion, which relies on continual consumption. Consumers want to be able to shop with ease
and speed, consequently if the advice is not clear and easily provided, they
will not know how to shop sustainability.
However, it is improbable that
fast fashion retailers will provide advice on sustainable consumption,
considering their products prioritise trends, affordability and overconsumption,
rather than sustainability. Therefore the
combination of the factors leads to an unsustainable system.
This subsection recognizes that
there is a general unawareness of the environmental impacts and possible ways
of improving of their consumption behaviours. The lack of promotion towards sustainable
consumption and the accelerating fast fashion business strategy increasing
consumption will fundamentally result in an unsustainable apparel approach.
Overall, the results of this
research have provided evidence to support increasing apparel consumption. This
research indicates that fast fashion has had a significant impact on the
consumption norms as it is responsible for increasing trend turnover, reducing
the quality of the garments and prioritising an impulsive shopping behaviour (Sull
and Turnconi, 2008). Despite the acceleration of fast fashion, consumers
unsustainable apparel consumption is also rooted within pressures placed on
beauty and fashion and lack of environmental knowledge (Hill, 2012; Solomon and
rabolt, 2009)
This chapter displays the final
conclusions of this dissertation. The
central aims of this research project will be deliberated against the literature
review and the projects comprehensive findings. The methodology selected to
achieve this research will be re-evaluated, highlighting areas of improvement,
before recommendations are produced to benefit future research.
The key aim of this study was to
investigate fast fashion in relation to general consumption norms for women
aged from 18-25 within the apparel industry and the environmental implications.
In chapter 2, the literature review explored the impacts of fast fashion within
the apparel industry, the subsequent environmental pressures and factors effecting
sustainable consumption. This emphasised the complexity of sustainable apparel
consumption as fast fashion prioritises, trend turnover, style and
affordability (Sull and Turnconi, 2008; Hayes and Jones, 2006). Additionally,
it suggested that social pressure and globalisation goes hand-in-hand with fast
fashion and increasing consumption, due to the cultural and lifestyle
adjustments which have followed (Hill, 2012; Solomon and Rabolt, 2009). Overall, the literature illustrated that lifestyle
expectations, lack of environmental awareness combined with affordable and
readily available clothes produce general unsustainable consumption behaviours.
The results from this study support
the literature views as it indicates that overconsumption was present within
the selected population as a result of fast fashion (Caro and
Martines-de-Albenize, 2014). This argument was reinforced by participants
confirming that increasing trend turnover, the importance of appearance and
poor quality clothing promote their consumption behaviour supporting Carruthers
(2003), D’Andrea and Arnold (2002) and Hayes and Jones (2006). This literature
did not link increasing apparel consumption to the lack of environmental knowledge
and concern however this study highlights a clear correlation. There was a high
proportion of participants with lack of environmental awareness and a
proportion with a lack of concern resulting in unsustainable consumption
behviour, supporting Hill (2012), Kim and Lynn-Damhorst (1998) and Brosdahl and
Carpenter (2010). The research study also emphasized a new viewpoint within
apparel consumption regarding a general lack of knowledge of sustainable
consumption practices. The combination of all the factors have resulted in a
fundamental unsustainable systems.
Chapter 3 considered the wide variety
of data collection processes and justified the selected approach of adopting a mixed
methodology. Online questionnaires and semi-structured interviews were
considered the most appropriate as it allowed the research to collect, scale
and scope, required to investigate general consumption norms, purchasing
influences and sustainable barriers (Clark and Ivankova, 2016). The
questionnaire received 100 respondents capturing the scale required to access
consumption norms which was arguably achieved through the relatively short size
encouraging participation. However, this sample size is still relatively small
in relation to the overall size of the demographic. The questionnaire
concentrated on consumption norms as it was not suitable to examine influences
and barriers. Therefore semi-structured interviews were adopted to gain an
in-depth understanding of participant’s experiences and opinions (Corbin and
Strauss, 2015; Rejnö, Berg and Danielson, 2014). The study conducted 6
interviews as it prioritised information rather than volume. Feilzer (2009)
argued that the combination of quantitative and qualitative research can
increase validity and reliability due to the elimination of weaknesses. On
reflection, this approach was suitable for the research project and utilised
the time scale however this dissertation relies upon a relatively small sample
of interviews, therefore further responses and participant would maximise
validly and accuracy. Despite this, obvious themes were present within the
findings correlating with existing literature.
This study may draw attention to
the issues within the apparel industry and act as a spring board for future
research to investigate the environmental damage. The interviews particularly
raised several topics which could be considered as areas to research, for
instance
In conclusion, this research topic has brought to light to a
recently emerging apparel consumption behaviour change and environmental issues
which has largely gone unnoticed. The fast fashion business strategy is
arguably fundamentally unsustainable as its ethos prioritises affordability,
style and quick responses. The cycle of increasing consumption and trend
turnover is predicted to continue, further pressuring the Earth’s resources. In
reality, this attitude can be damaging to the environment and if allowed to
continue, could result in long-term problems which may not be reversible (Cook
and Yurchisin, 2017).
You have to be 100% sure of the quality of your product to give a money-back guarantee. This describes us perfectly. Make sure that this guarantee is totally transparent.
Read moreEach paper is composed from scratch, according to your instructions. It is then checked by our plagiarism-detection software. There is no gap where plagiarism could squeeze in.
Read moreThanks to our free revisions, there is no way for you to be unsatisfied. We will work on your paper until you are completely happy with the result.
Read moreYour email is safe, as we store it according to international data protection rules. Your bank details are secure, as we use only reliable payment systems.
Read moreBy sending us your money, you buy the service we provide. Check out our terms and conditions if you prefer business talks to be laid out in official language.
Read more